Scenography - The Theatre Design Website

Costume Construction

This guide has been reproduced with the kind permission of Lesley Lindsay. The following instructions and diagrams are basic blocks for the male and female figure. Diagrams of the blocks, along with blocks for a one piece sleeve and trousers, and instructions are all included in our download available for printing or to read on iPods.

Basic Block - Men’s

Diagram in download is approximately quarter scale of measurements:

Chest 90 cms, Waist 76 cms, Hips 96 cms, across (x)/back 38 cms, Nape/waist 42 cms

• AB = nape to waist
• AD = 1/2 AB; AE = 1/2 AD; BC = 23 cms (standard measurement)
• AY = 7.5 cms. XY = 2 cms. Curve A to X.
• DK = 1/2 Chest + 3 cms. DH = one third chest. EG = 1/2 x/back; PGF is parallel to AD
• HJ = 1/2 HK
• PQ = 1/2 PH
• AZ is parallel to DK
• JL is parallel to KZ, Square up and down from K to Z, S and U
• DO = 1/2 DQ
• Oo is parallel to AC
• Join E to L; M is found 3 cms below the cutting of GF by EL; join M to X
• NL on EL = MX minus 1.5 cms
• NQGM is the armhole. Draw in using HN as a guideline
• RZ = LZ; LR is the front neck curve.
• CU is the hipline; BS is the waistline.

Drop front waistline and hipline 4 cms to T and V respectively.

To shape the hipline:

• Subtract 1/2 chest measurement from 1/2 hip measurement and divide by 2
• WW and W are at this measurement on either side of Qq
• CW + WWV = new hipline

To shape the waistline with darts:

• BT = new waistline, when completed
• DO = 1/2DQ. Oo is parallel to DC

Men’s Basic Block

Subtract 1/2 waist measurement from 1/2 chest measurement. This is the amount available for shaping with darts. The dart DBC is usually no larger than 0.5cm

Distribute this amount proportionately as per diagram and actor and join darts from chest line DK through waistline to hipline CW + WWV

The triangle at WW +W is common to both the front and back sections. Cut out front block with triangle attached, trace triangle W to WW and sellotape to back block.

Basic Block - Women’s

Diagram in download is approximately quarter scale of measurements:

Bust 90 cms, Waist 62 cms, Hips 98 cms, x/back 36 cms, Nape/Waist 40 cms

• AB = Nape/Waist
• AD = 1/2AB; AE = 1/2 AD; BC = 20 cms (standard measurement)
• AY = 7 cms; XY = 2 cms; Curve A to X
• DK = 1/2 Bust + 3 cms. DH = one third Bust
• HJ = 1/2 HK
• EG = 1/2 x/back; PGF is parallel to AD
• PQ = 1/2 PH
• Square up and down from K to Z, S and U
• Af is parallel to DK
• HL = 6.5 cms; strike up Lg to cut Af
• ga = 2.5 cms
• ab = 1.5 cms
• bz is parallel to gf
• Join Ea and extend to cut bZ at c
• ac = bust allowance
• M is 2.5 cms below the cutting of GF by Ea; join MX
• Na on Ea = MX minus 1.5 cms
• Jd is parallel to Kf
• de on Nc = ac
• Connect Jd and extend Je to equal the measurement of Jd This gives the bust dart
• RZ = cZ; curve cR to give front neckline
• NQGM is the armhole. Draw in using HN as guideline
• Join N to e extended, to complete front shoulder
• Qq is parallel to AC
• ST = 2.5 cms
• UV = 2.5 cms
• BT is the Waistline
• CV is the Hipline, when completed

Women’s Basic Block

To shape the hipline:

Subtract 1/2 Bust measurement from 1/2 Hip measurement and divide by 2. WW and W are at this measurement c is found at Ea extended, cutting bz on either side of Qq.

To shape the waistline:

• DO = 1/2 DQ
• Oo is parallel to AC

Subtract 1/2 Waist measurement from 1/2 Bust measurement, This is the amount available for shaping with darts. The dart DBC is usually no larger than 0.5 cm

Distribute this amount proportionately as diagram and join darts from bustline DK through new waistline BT to new Hipline CW + WWV

The triangle at WW +W is common to both the front and back sections. Cut out front block with triangle attached, trace triangle WtoWW and sellotape to back block.

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